Cook's Landscape Rejuvenation Consulting & Designs

Stand across the street and look at the house. Ignore the yard. The house is the focal point at this time. Determine what architectural style is used for the house. Is it Tudor? Ranch? Georgian? Modern? Cottage? Manor? Bungalow?

Does the house have a verandah/porch? Is it a small porch accomodating the front entrance only or is it a wrap around? Is it nondescript or does it have embellished trim? To create your "perfect" garden - not one that is just "anything", the process starts with the house as the central feature.

Next note the colour of the building as well as the construction material. Is it red brick? vinyl/aluminum siding? What colour? Is it log construction? clapboard (and colour)? natural wood siding? stucco (and colour)? stone construction?

If the house has a combination of materials, i.e. a two-storey or 1 1/2 storey house with the lower portion of brick or stucco and the upper with vinyl/aluminum siding, the main consideration is the material used on the lower portion of the building.

Next take note of the number of windows and doors and their location, on the lower level of the house. Does the sidewalk approach the house in a horizontal line? vertical or curving? Is the driveway circular in front of the house or is it vertical to the side of the building?

Is the driveway constructed of asphalt or interlocking stone? Black asphalt radiates more heat in summer than interlocking stone and this temperature must be kept in mind when placing plants nearby.

Is the sidewalk constructed of solid concrete, flagstone or interlocking stone?

Take note of existing shrubbery and trees and are they an appropriate size for their location or do they partially obscure windows and overhang the sidewalk or driveway?

Is the house set back from the street? Take note of the distance from the street to the house. This should be taken into consideration when choosing shrubs / trees for the front of the property.

Part 2 - Style of Garden Best Suited for the Building

The landscape of a home should always compliment the architecture of the house.

So many times I have seen log homes; stone houses; replicas of Victorian or old Colonial architecure and the owners have used modern plant material and ornamentation. Plastic furniture and ornaments were not in existence in the time period when log / stone / Victorian or Colonial houses were built.. Nor were moon ray lights. Recent plant materials such as Harlequin Maples, and other recent hybrids introduced into the Horticultural Market also were not available to home owners at that time period. Not only are they inappropriate to use with these types of architecture, but the two do not blend. Rather they stand apart from each other so that the landscape is viewed as one part while the house is viewed as another part, but not as a whole picture.

I will attempt here, to give you a brief but general guidance. If further information is wanted, do not hesitate to contact me.

The homeowner should first determine the architectural style of the home. Before designing the garden, there should be some understanding of the time period of that architectural style.

1. Log Homes

Log homes are usually referred to as Pioneer homes. Since early Pioneers built these houses in an area cleared of trees, there would have been one or more large trees providing a backdrop. Today, you will see advertising photos and real estate portfolios generally depicting the log home with a large tree as a backdrop - whether it is an evergreen or a large deciduous tree.

A log home is an informal type of building. All flowers, shrubs and vines were grown informally in these very early gardens. However, the plants were cultivated and maintained neatly without any attempt at design. The choice of what was to be grown was influenced by the personality, nationality and character of the gardener.

Early gardens were small and located conveniently close to the kicthen door thus earning the name of "kitchen garden". Flower beds, borders and flowering shrubs which were located at the front of the house were referred to as the "parlour garden" or "show garden". Because this garden greeted the guests, it was planted with the aim of creating a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere. There was very little time for leisure so it was not a "sitting garden".

Today's log home garden need not be austere. With the use of evergreens, flowering shrubs and flowering plants of varying height , textures and colour, a very pleasant atmosphere can be created.

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2. Traditional House

Owners of the traditional house (what we now call the 'salt box' or 'garrison house') or modern houses in the "traditional" style, will find that the appropriate type of landscape uses the style of some of the early colonists.

These gardens used native plants and building materials. The result was a unity of architectural and landscape design that is as valid today as it was in the 1700's.

The original colonial gardens were basically green with occasional splashes of colour. They usually included an ornamental garden. These gardens were modeled on the formal English gardens whose owners originally borrowed from the Dutch. They were all very similar in size and design.

Formal gardens were created in a geometrically balanced design. Symmetry and perfect balance are required but the pattern may vary. The garden may also include sculpture, benches, sundials, fountains, pools, arbors, gazebos depending on the garden's size. Restraint in design should be used to avoid becoming over elaborate and ostentatious.

The garden might be a "parterre" - meaning a divided garden (four part etc.). The main thrust of the landscape was a formal design.

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3. Stone Houses

Stone houses are of two different styles . They can be of a formal two-storey style of architecture or they can be informal - such as a one-storey cottage style of architecture. A formal style of stone house would more appropriately use a landscape of the type used for the Traditional House.

In the latter part of the 18th century, the formal gardens gave way to informal ones. This was the time period just prior to the civil war in the U.S. where the informal gardens evolved in North America. It seemed to be a period in which individualism was being emphasized. The intricate patterns of beds, the elaborately clipped shrubs and hedges and ornaments were gone. This was replaced by a wide strip of lawn surrounded by flowers, shrubs, trees. The informal style encouraged individual creativity in both design and use of plants. Many varieties of flowers were grown together in a natural style rather than placed in symmetrical patterns.

Herbs were grown among flowers - no longer relegated to the "herb garden". This is not a type of garden that comes into existence by accident. Garden " informality " does not mean that one applies jungle manners to the landscape or create a wilderness. It uses a strict form of planning, as strict as that used for formal gardens. The difference being that instead of arbitrarily placing plants and ornaments in a preconceived symmetrical plan, they are placed in a style that mutually compliments each other and their surroundings. This style would also include the Cottage Garden.

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4. Victorian Houses

The Victorian time period was from 1860 to 1900. Critics have called Victorian landscapes "cluttered and overdone". In gardens of good taste, this was certainly not the case.\par \par Victorian gardens were ornate. It was in this time period that glass houses (greenhouses) came into existence allowing for exotic plant material to be introduced into the garden. Many people other than those of the horticulture industry of the time, in their travels abroad made it a point to explore the countryside and find some new plant to bring back and introduce into the garden.

Garden urns were made of cast iron and quite ornate - rather than using classical lines. Sundials were used extensively. Gazing globes, however, were not yet in vogue. Taste was affected by wealth. Remember this was the period of the great industrial development.

Flower beds were also designed ornately. These were circular or rectangular and raised in the center so that the design would be clearly seen by the public. Some beds had plantings designed as baskets of flowers, using carpet bedding plants. Maintenance of these gardens was extremely involved. This type of garden was primarily installed by the very wealthy.

People of lesser wealth attempted to copy these landscapes but not with the same skill. However, intricate patterns were made with flowers, within the beds.

Today's landscape has evolved into something less laborious but giving similar results. With the use of contrasting colours and varying heights, a much similar effect can be achieved.

Elaborate arbors, as entry ways into the garden were used and usually covered with vines. Frequently these arbors were large enough to allow for a wooden bench - a beautiful secluded spot to escape the heat in summer.

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Part 3 - Plant Materials

Until now, we have been focussing our attention to the approach to the house. To complete the picture, we need to look at the back yard as well. Draw the outline of the backyard on paper. Landscape planning is an exercise in problem solving. The idea here, is to pose questions to enable the homeowner to define the problem that may exist, and discover a solution.

When pondering the following questions, note these on your plan.

First, consider lifestyle. Is the homeowner or the children living there, avid sports enthusiasts? Should an area be set aside for a badminton net or a basket ball hoop? Is there the need for a gymn set for small children. This type of sports entertainment is temporary and should be located close to the house. Keep in mind that in a number of years it will be removed and plan ahead as to what that area would then be used as.

How much time is spent at home or is most of the summer time spent at the cottage? If the answer to cottage life is yes, a low maintenance design for the primary home would be best.

Does the homeowner entertain frequently, outdoors? Should a permanent barbecue be built? Does a patio or deck already exist? If not, is that a requirement? Is lighting for that area a necessity? Any lighting to be considered should be of a nature bright enough to provide safety in walking about after dusk. Barbecues should be located by the patio or deck.

Notice the areas where the sun shines and for what part of the day. You will need this information to decide the type of plant material for successful growth

Is there deep shade or dappled shade in any area of the yard? Frequently grass grown in deep shade is thin and that area may be better served by using a ground cover.

On your plan, identify the location of any underground services, i.e. sewer lines; gas lines; underground wiring. This information will prevent accidental damage to these services. Trees planted closely to these services may also cause damage when roots tangle with sewer/gas lines. Conversely, if maintenance work is required on these services, roots of trees or shrubs will not be endangered.

On a rural property the weeping bed and septic system should also be located on the plan. Also note any abandoned wells or wells currently in use. Overhead wires leading to the house should also be noted. Any plant material planted in the vicinity of the weeping bed and septic system should be shallow rooted so as not to plug the systems. Trees should never be planted under overhead wires, nor close enough to have branches overhang these wires.

A potential problem to be considered is that of unsightly views. This could be a dog run, the garbage can area, a neighbour's messy yard or a recreational vehicle parked for several months, unused. Whatever the visual problem, with the use of plant material or non-plant structures, unsightly views can be hidden or one's attention diverted from them.

Armed with this information, we can now discuss plant materials for the entire property.

Landscapes, dominated by evergreens don't offer the seasonal variation that adds interest to the environment. When looking for plant material try to buy plants that have interest for more than one season, or for longer than a week or two if they only have one-season interest. Consider subtle ways to introduce colour and interest into the landscape - e.g. seasonal colour change in plant's leaves. Look at the colour of the bark. Does the bark peel off or exfoliate or have interesting ridges? Consider the crown shapes of trees and shrubs, and their branch patterns. These can also lend interest to the landscape even if they are deciduous.

All too often the treatment of the front area is governed by the home owner's wish for 'show'. There may be a tendency to adorn or beautify the home with the excessive planting of colourful evergreens and shrubs neglecting the concern for function and aesthetic compatibility of the home and surroundings. The same principle can apply to the backyard. A yard that is over planted or cut up by multiple beds, becomes a high maintenance and low functional piece of the property. One or two beds in the yard are manageable while the rest are best situated to the side of the yard leaving ample space for other activities and ease of maintenance.

Following are some points to ponder:

Point one - when selecting trees, shrubs, ornamental grasses, perennials, always determine what their size will be when fully mature. Never select plants on the basis of the size they are when you purchase them.

Point two - Plant material selected as foundation plants should always, when fully mature, be lower than the window sill.
Plants selected to grow near a sidewalk or driveway should be set back far enough so that at maturity they do not 'reach' over the edge.

Point three - For your own safety, it is wise not to plant an evergreen tree or shrub/shrubs beside entrance doors or garage doors. This is an excellent hiding place for anyone with ill intentions.

Point four - Keep trees and shrubs at the front of the property in proportion to the space between the street and the house. A small to medium height tree would be ideal for a bungalow or one storey home. A two-storey building would allow for a tree of greater height. Although a taller tree would be permissible, take into account the ultimate spread of it's branches. One oak tree in front of a two-storey home with a forty foot set back, would mean the oak tree's spread would obscure the building from the street and block all views from the house to the street.

Point five - Consider plantings that give protection from the summer sun but also allow warmth from the winter sun. Small trees will usually mature quickly enough to be relatively effective if installed at a suitable location for house climate control.
Be sure to check the plant hardiness, to ensure it will survive in your climate zone.

Point six - If recent/new plant material is to be used - that is perennials and or annuals - integrate them with plants like Grandmother grew in her garden.

Point seven - For heritage style architecture, if moon ray style of lighting is considered essential, choose one in the style of a coach lamp or captains' lamp. The modern styles are inappropriate. For garden accents i.e. urns, flower planters, statues etc. choose either concrete or wood as the material. Plastic is inappropriate for heritage style homes.

The following short plant lists are intended as examples to convey some ideas for the homeowner. This can be a source to start the 'ideas' flowing.

TREES

Locust	A shade tree with relatively open foliage. Large tree at maturity
Maple	Shade tree with dense foliage. Several varieties as examples: Norway Maple - 'Erectum' - fast-growing columnar Norway Maple - 'Globosum' - Globe shaped. An excellent choice for planting under utility wires Norway Maple - 'Crimson King' - an old favourite. Sometimes over planted.
Linden	'Tilia cordata' - (little leaved Linden) - a small shade tree to satisfy the shade requirements of a sitting out area or as an accent tree on a small property. Inconspicuous blooms, but highly fragrant - in July.
Birch	' Betula papyrifera clump' - (Canoe Birch). A multi-stemmed tree for design effect.
Flowering Crab Flowering Cherry	'Malus' - small flowering tree which may be used as a group planting, or along the drive or fence. May also be used along a fence or as an accent tree in a border, a yard or a planter.

Evergreen Trees

Colorado Spruce	'Picea pungens' - Excellent for use as background, specimen effect or for windbreaks. Colorado Spruce is a tall growing evergreen.
Austrian Pine	'91Pinus nigra' - Useful in group plantings, mass plantings and for screening material.
Mugo Pine	' Pinus mugo' - An evergreen of medium size having a rounded shape.
White Cedar	'Thuja occidentalis' - pyramidal in shape, relatively narrow, fast growing.

Shrubs (low growing shrubs and exposure)

Potentilla	These are low growing shrubs requiring a full sun exposure
Hydrangea arborescens	'Annabelle' - low growing shrubs requiring shady location.
Weigela florida	'Variegata' - shrub of medium height. Full sun exposure.
Dogwood	Cornus alba 'Argenteo-marginata' (Tatarian Dogwood) - Medium height shrub for a shady location.
Mock Orange	Philadelphus virginalis 'Minnesota Snowflake' - Tall growing shrub requiring full sun exposure.
Ninebark	'Physocarpus opulifolius' = Tall shrub for a shady location.

Deciduous Material for Formal Hedging

Privet	Ligustrum vulgare 'Lodense' - Full sun exposure Low height.
Snowball	Viburnum opulus 'Nanum' - Low hedging material for shady location.
Privet	Ligustrum 'Amurense' - Of medium height. Full sun exposure.
Alpine Currant	Ribes 'alpinum' - Medium height material for shade.

Vines for Screening

If plant material is required for screening, vines are the recommended material for this purpose. Four vines that are very useful for this purpose are:
Honeysuckle	Lonicera 'Dropmore Scarlet' Continuous bloomer with bright scarlet, long tubed flowers requiring full sun exposure. Height of 5m or 16 ft. - Deciduous;
Hydrangea	'Hydrangea petiolaris' - Handsome climbing vine covered in early summer with White flowers. Requires a shady location. Height of 6 m or 19 ft. - Deciduous.
Virginia Creeper	Parthenocissus quinquefolia - Rapid climber. Dense. Bright scarlet foliage in Autumn. Height - 5 m. or 16 ft. Deciduous.
Euonymus -Winter Creeper	'Euonymus fortunei' Splendid glossy green leaved vine for walls. Withstands smoke and shade. Height -6 m or 20 ft. Evergreen
There is one excellent characteristic of most broad-leaved evergreens. They usually tolerate fairly heavy shade and in most cases sunny exposures as well. Following are some good examples:
Yucca; Pyracantha; Daphne; Cotoneaster, Boxwood
Needle-like evergreens only ; two species do well in the shade. They are:
Japanese Yew and Canadian Hemlock.
The following require sunny locations:
Junipers; Cedars; Spruces and Pines
Juniper	Juniperus sabina 'Hicksii' - has an upright growth habit plain - with feathery needles. This shrub is of medium height.
These have a mound-like form and are adaptable to use as a ground cover.
Nest Spruce	Picea abies 'Nidiformis'
Mugo Pine	Pinus mugo
White Cedar	Thuja occidentalis 'Little Champion'
Tamarix Juniper	Juniperus sabina 'Tamarsicifolia'.

Medium to Tall Shrubs

Pfitzer Juniper	Juniperus chinensis 'Pfitzeriana'
Hetz's Juniper	Juniperus virginiana 'Hetzii'
Japanese Yew	Taxus cuspidata
These can also be used in mass plantings.
The following are listed with their characteristic form:
Korean Boxwood	Buxus microphylla koreana - Ball like form
Globe Cedar	Thuja occidentalis 'Little Champion' - Ball like form.
Swedish Juniper	Juniperus communis 'Suecica' - Upright and columnar.
Skyrocket Juniper	Juniperus virginiana 'Skyrocket' - Pyramidal and narrow in form.
Mountbatten Juniper	Juniperus chinensis 'Mountbatten' - Pyramidal in form/medium width.
Admiral Juniper	Juniperus scopulorum 'Admiral' - Pyramidal and broad in form.

Summary:
The past can prove a valuable guide to the future and an understanding of social needs and change is essential to help develop a plan that satisfies the needs of the homeowner's lifestyles while maintaining a landscape that has an overall pleasing effect.

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CREATING A WILDLIFE GARDEN

Wildlife numbers have been in a steady decline for many years. There are many factors which contribute to this decline, but the most significant factor responsible is the loss of habitat. As a homeowner, you can make a personal contribution to the restoration of our wildlife and their habitats. Planning and maintaining a wildlife garden is not complicated or more time consuming than what you are currently expending. As well, it does not require that you sacrifice visual beauty.

There are three basic requirements:

1. Food

2. Water

3. Shelter

Since all wildlife species have different lifestyles, and their needs change with the seasons, a variety of plants should be used. The greater the diversity of food and cover you provide, the greater the variety of wildlife you will be assisting. Plant shrubs and trees in natural looking clumps, hedgerows and thickets but leave open areas of grass and flowers between these clumps. A pond or bird bath is also essential.

Food and cover should be provided at a variety of levels. For example: grass would be at the ground levels; flowers would be the second level; the next step up would be shrubs and finally medium and tall trees to form a canopy and provide shelter and protection from would be enemies.

Native trees and shrubs are better adapted to the local soil conditions and climate. As a result, they are more resistant to local diseases and pests. Exotic species do not have this resistance. Consider also, that native stock requires less of your time and money to maintain. Most importantly, the wildlife are better adapted to native plant communities since it was from these that the wildlife evolved.

What May you Expect?

On a city or suburban lot, you should expect to see Cardinals, Blue Jays, Robins and Orioles in spring and fall migrating Warblers and Sparrows will stop and visit. You may see Rabbits, squirrels and Owls. Butterflies and Hummingbirds will make your yard their summer habitat. In the country, you should see Deer, Hawks, Owls, Foxes and pheasant. Keep your project simple. Don't expect results overnight. Perhaps a five year plan is realistic. Remember it takes a few years for trees and shrubs to become mature and fruit bearing.

Hear are a few guidelines to help make the project more manageable.

Gradually remove the undesirable, non-native plants existing in the garden. Replace them with suitable native species. Relocate plants to create a clump Mulch your flower beds. Leave an obscure corner of your yard untended.

Following are brief lists of plants that could be used. Your nursery will also assist you in identifying and obtaining native plant material for your area.

TREES

Evergreens These provide shelter	Deciduous
Red Pine	Oaks
White Pine	Maples
White Cedar	White Birch
White Spruce	White Ash
Balsam Fir	Shagbark Hickory
	Black Cherry
	Horse Chestnut
	Hawthorn
	Shadbush
	Mountain Ash
	Serviceberries
	Crabapples
	Staghorn Sumac
	Chokecherry
	Black Locust

Shrubs

Evergreens

American Yew - shade tolerant Songbirds love fruit

Common Juniper - provides good cover for sparrows ; juncos; mourning doves; cardinals and thrashers

Deciduous

Honeysuckle - provides nectar for hummingbirds,robins, finches who enjoy the berries

Roses - provide shelter & nesting sites

Butterfly Bush - exclude white flowering varieties which butterflies & hummingbirds ignore

Lilac - provides shelter & nesting sites

Dogwoods

American Elder - fruit enjoyed by a wide variety of birds

American Hazelnut - nuts eaten by Blue Jays, Squirrels and humans

Raspberry & Blackberry

Currants

Vines

Virginia Creeper - berries eaten by birds

Bittersweet - provides nesting sites

Wild Grape - food for many birds

Flowers For Seed Eating Birds

Evening Primrose	Zinnia
Coreopsis	Asters
Hollyhocks	Cosmos
Ageratum	Corn Flower
Sunflowers

If using wild flower mixes, check the list of contents to ensure they do not contain exotic weedy species. Avoid those mixes.

Flowers For Butterflies
Butterflies are attracted to the colours - purple, blue, yellow and pink.
(Keep in mind butterflies require shelter i.e. an open sunny area protected from the wind).

Chives	Coneflowers - Echinacea species
New England Aster	Coreopsis species
Goldenrod	Phlox
Zinnia	Verbena species
Lupines	Yarrow - Achillea millefolium
Bergamots - monarda species	Allium species
Black-eyed Susan - Rudbeckia hirta	Milkweed - Asclepias species (unless classified as a noxious weed in your locale)
Blazing Star - Liatris	Scabiosa
	Cosmos sulphureus

Flowers For Hummingbirds

Hummingbirds colour preference is red, orange and or yellow varieties. Masses of flowers rather than single plants or small clumps.

Bergenia

Coral Bells -Heuchera sanguinea

Hollyhock - Althea rosea

Columbine - Aquilegia canadensis

Morning Glory

Larkspur - Delphinium

Scarlet Sage - Salvia splendens

Bergamot - Monarda didyma

Including the following

Butterfly Bush

Honeysuckles

Trumpet Vine

Scarlet Runner Bean

Honeysuckle Vine - Lonicera 'Dropmore'

Silver Lace Vine

Weigela

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