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GARDENING TASKS - MONTH BY MONTH

This page was designed for Canadian climate zones 5 and 6, which can also include USDA climate zones 4 and 5.

For garden guide for the west coast - USDA Zone 9, go to.

January February March April May June July August September October November December

JANUARY

  1. Recycle your Christmas tree by cutting off all branches and laying them over flower beds.
  2. Plant seeds that require a long time to germinate, i.e., half-hardy annuals such as fibrous rooted begonias, carnations, lobelia, sweet peas, snapdragons, pansy.
  3. Take cuttings of Geraniums, Coleus, Impatiens, Alternathera, Iresine, Santolina. Dip the cuttings in rooting hormone #1and insert into moistened vermiculite or perlite to root.
  4. Check stored tubers, bulbs and corms and discard those that are diseased. Dust others with garden sulphur if necessary to prevent spread of disease.
  5. Check houseplants for mites, insects and whitefly. Treat at first evidence.
  6. Groom neglected houseplants but do not fertilize.
  7. On paper, draw plans for your garden. Include interesting visual elements into your design.
  8. Study the garden's bare bones for form.
  9. Read seed catalogues and place order.
  10. Place a lidded container for vegetable scraps by back door
  11. Place peat moss in bottom of container to absorb moisture.
  12. Relax and read gardening books and magazines.
  13. Start long germinating, half-hardy annuals indoors now--flowers such as fibrous rooted Begonias, Carnations, Lobelias, Sweet Peas and Snapdragons.

FEBRUARY

  1. Sow annual seeds - those which require 14 to 22 weeks from sowing to flowering
    Dusty Miller February 1
    Impatiens February 1
    Viola (Johnny Jump Ups) February 15
    Pansy February 1 - 15
    Lavatera February 15
    Lisianthus February 15
    Coleus February 15
    Heliotrope February 15
    Nierembergia February 15
    Petunia February 15
    Vinca February 15
    Lobelia February 22
    Snapdragon February 22
  2. Prune Grape vines.
  3. Check stored tubers and corms (canna; gladiola; calla; dahlia) for areas of rot. Cut away any decayed areas and then dust cut areas with garden sulphur.
  4. Take cuttings of - Geraniums; impatiens; carnations; heliotrope; fuschia;coleus. When roots are 1/2 inch long, pot into good potting soil and apply a transplanter fertilizing solution according to instructions on container.
  5. After taking cuttings , prune plants such as geraniums, fuschia and coleus by about 2/3. This will force new growth which will make geraniums & fuschias very bushy and produce more blooms.
  6. Prune Flowering Maples (Abutilon). Each branch should be cut back 2/3.
  7. Other plants to cut back are: Ficus Benjamina; Passion Vine; Vinca Vine -(basket variety -Vinca major
  8. Pinch tips of Schefflera, Ivies, Dipladenia, Pink Polka Dot plant. Pinching encourages multiple branching and also results in producing more flower buds. Pinching also produces a stronger and more compact plant.
  9. Caladiums should be started into growth. Plant them in moist vermiculite and cover with approx. 1 inch of moist vermiculite. Moisten lightly with No-Damp to prevent fungi development. Cover container and provide bottom heat (use heating tray or place on top of refrigerator). When new leaves are visible, plant into pots with good potting soil. TIP: If you want large leaves ,place tubers right side up in vermiculite however there will be fewer leaves. If you want more leaves, place tubers upside down in vermiculite, however leaves will be smaller.in size.
  10. This is the time for selecting annual seeds for bedding - either to fill the garden or to intersperse in the perennial border.
  11. Now is the time to repair garden furniture and garden tools.
  12. If you plan to include arbors, garden seats or furniture,this year, this is a good time to order these items.
  13. Check and repair cold frames.
  14. Pot up cuttings already rooted.
  15. Now that the weather has made a turn, use a little fertilizer on any "house" plants that have begun to show new growth, but do not fertilize plants before they have reached that stage.
  16. Repot Citrus trees but keep them pot-bound. Feed them with bone meal once a month while growing.
  17. Have your lawn mower serviced. Service centres are not as busy at this time of year.
  18. Sharpen all garden tools.
  19. Cut out canes of Raspberries that bore fruit last year.
  20. On Currant shrubs, prune out all wood over three years old.

MARCH

With greater light intensity and longer days, cuttings of most plants root readily this month. Dip cuttings into a rooting hormone to stimulate good root production, then place in moist sterile vermiculite or perlite and enclose in a plastic bag leaving top open. If possible, provid bottom heat. This can be done by placing the container on top of the refrigerator.

Mid to late March, as the frost leaves the ground, the following activities should be done.

  1. If you have not done so, complete the pruning of fruit trees and ornamental shrubs that bloom in midsummer or later. Do not prune spring blooming shrubs such as Forsythia, Flowering Quince, Deutzia or Lilacs until they have finished blooming.
  2. If you intend to use dormant oil / lime sulphur spray to control mites, scale insects, fungi and other overwintering insects and diseases, do so before new growth begins. Daytime temperature should be above 5ºC. with no rain for at least 24 hours after application. There should be no threat of frost that night. Apply in early morning so foliage is dry by evening.
  3. Remove all fallen or dead branches from the yard.
  4. If water is pooling on your lawn, use an aerating tool to spike the lawn to allow for drainage.
  5. Do not remove hoods from roses until the last week in March.
  6. Prune roses. Cut out any winter killed stems. Remove any branches which cross over another branch. Prune so that light penetrates the whole shrub.
  7. Any weeds, that are visible in the garden now, should be removed. By so doing, the need for weeding during the summer months will be drastically reduced.
  8. March is the month to sow the seeds of:
    Impatiens; Ageratum; Coleus; Gazania; Cleome; Larkspur; Marigold; Phlox; Salpiglossis;Salvia; Statice; Amaranthus.
  9. If you have not yet planted your Petunia seeds, start them in early March.
  10. Canna lily and Colocasia tubers should be taken out of cold storage, placed in moist peat moss and set in an area where they receive light (but not direct sunlight).
  11. Tuberous begonias and Caladiums should now be potted for forcing into new growth.
  12. Check flower beds. Any perennials that have heaved out of the ground may be gently pushed back into the soil. Loosely place a few evergreen branches over the plant to prevent further heaving.
  13. Pinch transplanted seedlings to produce branching/bushy plants. Remove only terminal shoot. If necessary, remove tip on side shoots.
  14. At end of month, hardy Alpine and Perennial plants can have mulch removed so plants are exposed to light and rain.
  15. Using a weak transplant solution, fertilize transplanted seedlings and potted cuttings
  16. Fertilize actively growing houseplants
  17. Remove spent flowers from geranium transplants
  18. Uncover hardy alpines, perennials and biennials over-wintered in cold frames. Cover temporarily with sash if cold spells threaten. Ventilate on sunny days.
  19. Check plants regularly for aphids; spider mites; mealy bugs; whitefly; fungus gnats. Treat with Insecticidal Soap Spray at first evidence.
  20. Fluff up packed mulches on perennials to let air circulate and prevent decay.
  21. Check for plants that have heaved during the winter and press back into the soil.
  22. When growing tips of early spring flowering bulbs measure 1 - 2", remove mulch from around them.
  23. If soil is frost free, before you spade or dig, test to see if the soil is workable. Take a spadeful of soil from a depth of 6". Pick up a handful of soil and squeeze. If the soil remains in a lump and does not fall apart, the soil is too wet for digging or spading.

APRIL

First week

  1. Remove mulch from spring bulbs and hardy biennial and perennial beds.
  2. Sow annual seeds which require 6 to 10 weeks to bloom.
  3. Uncover rose shrubs.
  4. Place Canna, Dahlias and Callas in moist peat moss and place in a warm room to begin growth, if you have not already done so.
  5. Side dress Lavender with wood ashes.
  6. Have lawn mower serviced.
  7. Plant or transplant shrubs, trees and hedges.
  8. Watch your houseplants and seedlings for any signs of aphids, spider mites, whitefly, fungus gnats. Take remedial action at the first symtom so that the problem does not become wide spread.
  9. Make certain that houseplants and/or seedlings are not crowded but that there is adequate room for air circulation around the plants.
  10. Plants that are growing vigorously should have the tips pinched to produce sturdy, bushy plants.
  11. Pot up tuberous begonias which have sprouted.
  12. Uncover roses in mid-April. Prune stalks back to green wood.

Second Week

  1. Repair lawn damage.
  2. Dig out dead grass and repair with top soil. Seed generously.
  3. Transplant rooted seedlings and cuttings at the true leaf stage.
  4. Mid to Late April, plant or transplant shrubs,evergreens, roses.
  5. End of April, plant cold tolerant vegetables in the garden. e.g.: Peas, Radishes, Onions and Lettuce.
  6. Sharpen garden tools, if this has not been done. (i.e. shovels, hoes, trowels, etc.)
  7. Bearded Iris also appreciate a light application of agricultural lime around the rhizomes, but do not apply lime to Bearded Iris.
  8. Top dress moisture loving perennials (such as Hostas, Primula, Dicentra, ferns) with well rotted manure or compost.
  9. Check the rock garden carefully and replace any plants that did not survive.
  10. Seeds of annual herbs (such as Parsley, Basil, Summer Savory, Sweet Marjoram) can be planted as soon as the soil can be cultivated. Perennial herbs (such as Thyme and Sage) may be planted at the same time.
  11. Avoid cultivating heavy clay soil while it is wet. Such activity will result in hard, compacted ground in which seeds and plants have great difficulty growing.

Third Week

  1. Prune ground covers such as Purple Wintercreeper and Vinca Minor.
  2. Apply dormant oil spray to fruit trees, ornamental shrubs and roses when no danger of rain for the next 24 hours, and night temperatures will not drop to freezing.
  3. Apply dormnant oil spray to Currant shrubs before leaf buds begin to open. Currant shrubs are among the earliest to leaf out.
  4. Transplant rose shrubs before leaf buds begin to open, for best success.
  5. Roses should be pruned just before spring growth starts.
  6. Hybrid teas and floribundas should be pruned to within 8" of the soil.
  7. Grandifloras should be pruned to within 1" from the soil.
  8. Shrub roses require only a nip at the top, but cut out dead or weak growth.

Fourth Week

  1. Be vigilant. Remove persistent weeds from borders and beds, now, to reduce need for weeding during the summer season.
  2. Dig and divide fall flowering perennials.
  3. Transplant Pansies, Forget-Me-Nots, Wallflowers, into beds.
  4. Plant hardy vegetables such as Peas, Radishes, Onions, Spinach, Swiss Chard and Beets.
  5. Fertilize ground covers.
  6. Watch for new growth on Delphiniums and, when it emerges, scatter bone meal and compost around the plants.
  7. Prune Mahonia (Oregon Grape) and apply Azalia fertilizer.
  8. Remove persistent weeds from borders and beds.
  9. Dig and divide fall flowering perennials.
  10. After Forsythia, Lilacs, Quinces have completed their bloom period, prune shurbs by 1/3rd. On Lilacs all dead blossoms should be removed. Also cut out the oldest woody branches at ground level.
  11. Wait until all danger of frost is past before removing winter protection from roses.

MAY

First Week

  1. Transplant roses but discontinue when leaf buds are half open.
  2. Nasturtiums, Calendula, Poppies, Candytuft and Larkspur can be sown directly in the flower bed where you intend to have them bloom.
  3. Mulch vines thickly at the base. Make sure they are well watered before mulching. (If they are planted under eaves or close to a wall, they may not be getting the necessary moisture for good healthy growth.
  4. Cultivate beds where you intend to plant late flowering bulbs.
  5. If daytime temperatures are above 5º C, place seedlings outdoors for a few hours to begin the process of acclimatizing the plants. Begin with one hour outdoors and gradually increase the time.
  6. May is lilac time. In early May, apply a light dusting of Agricultural Lime around the base of the shrub.
  7. Prune Lilac/Forsythia/Honeysuckle/Mahonia shrubs immediately after they have finished blooming.
  8. Time to hang up the hummingbird feeders. Clean and refill feeders every three or four days.
  9. Be a vigilant weed remover - removing roots as well. Don't rely on mulch to squelch weeds!

Second Week

  1. Check that mower is ready for lawn duty.
  2. Cultivate beds and dig in composted cattle manure as well as composted leaves (if leaf mold is available).
  3. Divide and transplant perennials such as: Oenothera (Evening Primrose), Rudbeckia, Fall Mums, Leopard's Bane and Bergenia.
  4. The less hardy evergreens such as False Cypress, Japanese Cedar, Hemlocks and Chinese Fir should be planted now.
  5. As blooms of early flowering bulbs fade, remove the flowers so plants put strength into renewing food supply within the bulbs - not using energy in producing needless seed pods.
  6. Corn should be planted when the oak leaves are the size of a mouse ear OR when the apple trees are in full bloom.

Third Week

  1. Don't be in a rush to plant the garden just because the calendar states it is now May 24th. That does not preclude that we will now be frost free. The soil may not be as warm as some plants prefer. There is no harm in waiting another week or so to plant the most tender annuals.

In the meantime:

  1. Check trees for signs of tent caterpillars and destroy them.
  2. Prune the candles (new growth) on evergreens by one-third to promote a thicker growth.
  3. Top dress your lawn.
  4. Cut away dead and diseased wood on shrubs and trees.
  5. Thin out crowded branches, especially those that cross over each other.
  6. Plant perennials and biennials.

Fourth Week

  1. Keep ferns well watered.
  2. If night temperatures have remained consistently above 50° F, you may plant "hardened off" annuals. Otherwise, wait another week.
  3. Plant beans. Plant a second row of lettuce, radish, beets and carrots.
  4. All tender bulbs/rhizomes should be planted now - Dahlias, Gladiola, Canna and Calla Lillies.
  5. Keep soil moist around newly planted nursery stock.
  6. As soon as new growth on roses is visible, begin a vigilent spray or dust programme and maintain throughout the growing season.
  7. Apply 10-10-10 fertilizer to spring flowering bulbs which have finished blooming.

JUNE

Week 1

  1. Do not prune foliage of late flowering tulips. Allow foliage to mature and die back naturally.
  2. Remove faded flowers from early blooming perennials and biennials.
  3. Complete transplanting of annuals, biennials, perennials and hardy garden mums.
  4. Check Columbine (Aquilegia) and roses for evidence of free loading pests.
  5. Do not prune foliage of tulips, daffodils, etc. Allow the foliage to mature and die back naturally. The green foliage is required for the manufacture of food to be stored in the bulb for next year's bloom.
  6. Remove faded flowers from early blooming perennials/biannuals.
  7. Remove faded / dead blooms from Lilacs and prune Lilac shrubs. Spread some agricultural lime around the base of shrubs and lightly rake into the soil.
  8. After flowers of Delphiniums have faded, cut the stalks back to twelve inches. When new growth emerges, then cut the old stalks back to 4 inches from the ground.
  9. As soon as the soil has warmed sufficiently, plant Gladiola corms.
  10. As Bleeding Hearts, Oriental Poppies and Virginia Bluebells die back, mark their location so you will not (accidentally)destroy these plants by digging in the bare spot they leave.
  11. Any plants growing under eaves and near a wall will require more frequent watering because eaves prevent rainfall from reaching the plants and the sun against a wall radiates warmth that tends to dry the soil.
  12. Plant Nasturtiums around roses to keep Rose bushes aphid free.

Week 2

  1. Hardy garden mums should have the tips of branches pinched for the first time.
  2. Young or weak stemmed plants, grown as standards - such as tree roses; fuschia; heliotrope; and lantana, should be staked.
  3. Initiate a regular watering programme for Cedars.

Week 3

  1. Carpet bedding plants such as Alternanthera; Irisine and Santolina should be sheared lightly.
  2. To avoid unwanted seedlings and to produce late summer bloom, cut back or shear early flowering perennials such as - Aubretia; Arabis; Lamium.
  3. Primula and Dwarf Iris should be divided immediately after blooms fade.

Week 4

  1. Plant perennial seeds outdoors and keep evenly moist.
  2. Hardy garden mums should have new growth pinched out again (second pinching) to encourage plants to bush out and produce greater number of blooms in the fall.
  3. Take softwood cuttings of favourite shrubs or vines. Cuttings should be 3-4 inches (7-10cm) in length and gathered early in the morning. Each cutting should have 3-4 nodes. Dip cutting into a rooting hormone. Insert into a container of vermiculite and cover with plastic. Usually takes 4 - 6 weeks for deciduous plants to root.
  4. Take leaf and stem cuttings of: Archangel; Dianthus (pinks) and Asters.

JULY

Week 1

  1. Clean bird baths thoroughly every second or third day to prevent mosquito larvae development.
  2. If irrigating lawns and/or gardens, do not have it set on automatic. It is an extravagant waste of water to have an irrigation system going when a rain storm is occurring or has just occurred. Irrigate manually and only as needed.
  3. Seeds to be sown in July for fall transplanting:
    Oriental Poppies
    English Daisy (Bellis perennis)
    Foxgloves
    Pyrethrum
    At end of July, sow seeds of Pansies
  4. Bearded Iris should be divided shortly after they have finished blooming.
  5. Prune flower shrubs after they have finished blooming.
  6. Collect seed of early flowering perennials and alpines e.g. Draba;Pulsatilla (Anemone); Aquilegia (Columbine). Place seeds in paper bags to dry.
  7. Fertilize annuals and hardy garden mums using a 20-20-20 fertilizer.
  8. Dead head plants as blooms fade (Annuals; Biennials; Perennials; Roses)
  9. Keep a watchful eye for: aphids on roses and honeysuckle vine; and evidence of spider mites or tarnished bugs on other plants.

Week 2

  1. Make the final pinch on mums.
  2. Prune hedges. Make sure that pruning is on an angle so that hedge is narrower at top than bottom. This allows for adequate light to bathe lower branches and continue to provide healthy growth.
  3. After strawberry harvest is complete, set lawn mower blade at highest setting and mow tops of strawberry plants to 5 cm. Remove suckers. This renews the strawberry patch.

Week 3

  1. Prune hybrid tea roses; miniature roses and climbing roses after they have finished blooming. Avoid pruning continuous blooming roses such as Rugosa.
  2. Bleeder trees such as Maples, should be pruned now.

Week 4

  1. Divide Bearded and dwarf types of Iris
    - discard any diseased portion of the rhizomes
    - trim back leaves by 1/3rd.
    - replant
    - scatter some agricultural lime over the soil surface and water in.
  2. Take stem and tip cuttings of perennials and alpines. Treat with rooting hormone and place in a container of vermiculite. Cover with plastic. Set in a shady area. (Plants such as: Yarrow; Moss Pink; Veronica: Gentian)
  3. Order hardy fall-flowering bulbs i.e. Colchicum; Cyclamen
  4. This is the hotttest and driest time of summer. Raise cutting height of blades on lawn mower so grass is cut no less than 2" (5 cm)
  5. Madonna lilies; Oriental Poppies; Bleeding Hearts; should be transplanted now.

AUGUST

Week l

  1. Divide spring blooming wildflowers (Trillium, Hepatica, Wild Ginger & Ladyslippers).
  2. Pull weeds before they re-seed.
  3. Take cuttings of Geraniums and Fuschia and root to use as flowering plants indoors in winter.
  4. Root cuttings of Rock Garden plants and ground covers.
  5. Shear carpet bedding plants (Foliage type - only)
  6. Scatter seeds of Columbine and Larkspur for early bloom next summer.
  7. Allow seeds of bi-ennials such as Lupines and Lychnis coronaria to scatter in the flower bed.
  8. In early August, propagate cuttings of deciduous shrubs. Insert 6" cuttings in a rooting hormone then place into the soil in a cold frame or under a bell jar.
  9. Plan your spring flowering bulb display this month. Make a list of the bulbs you intend to plant. Note their blooming time and growing height. Bulbs will begin to arrive in garden centres late this month.
  10. August is the month to start your fall landscaping projects.
  11. Late August - cuttings of evergreens such as Yew; Juniper; Euonymus; Boxwood, may be made. Follow same procedure as for deciduous shrubs.
  12. Transplant Mums into the garden for a burst of colour throughout the fall.
  13. Divide bearded and dwarf iris. Firm into place and water thoroughly. Trim 1/3 of foliage.
  14. Transplant Peonies. Using a ruler, make sure the crown of the plant is no deeper or shallower than 2 in. (5 cm) below the surface of the soil. Peonies planted deeper or shallower will likely fail to bloom.
  15. Collect seeds of maturing perennials and alpines such as Gaillardia; Gypsophila; Rock Cress. Place seeds in paper bags to dry. Label accurately.

Week 2

  1. Divide spring blooming wild flowers such as - Trillium; Ladyslipppers; Wild Ginger; and Hepatica.
  2. Keep track of perennials as they fade away. Mark their location with the name of the plant on a stake OR draw a garden plan indicating where they are located.
  3. Cut back raspberry canes that bore fruit this year to get strong new shoots for next year.
  4. Continue to deadhead faded blooms to prolong flowering of plants.

Week 3

  1. Transplant rooted perennial "slips". Choose a cloudy day and preferably just before rain is expected.
  2. Cut flowers and hang upside down in bunches to dry, for use as winter bouquets.
  3. Harvest herbs and hang them in a dark dry place to dry.
  4. Remove fallen fruit and leaves from around fruit trees to keep insect pests from establishing.

Week 4

  1. Plant early fall-flowering bulbs such as Colchicum (Autumn Crocus) and Cyclamen.
  2. Divide Siberian and Japanese Iris. Water thoroughly.
  3. Sow seeds of Pansies; Parsley; Foxglove in the garden.
  4. Transplant Narcissus.
  5. Check rock gardens and thin plants if necessary. Overcrowded conditions are not conducive to healthy, vigorous growth.
  6. Madona Lily bulbs should be planted in late August or early September.

August General Activities

  1. - Add some manure to the compost heap and water thoroughly.
  2. - Pull weeds religiously, before they re-seed.
  3. - Feed and disbud dahlias.
  4. - Put a light dusting of bone meal around roses and rake into top of soil to give strength and vigor for overwintering.

SEPTEMBER

WEEK 1

  1. Lift tender summer flowering bulbs for winter storage before a hard frost nips them
  2. If you do not want a proliferation of certain plants, remove seed pods to prevent their dropping to the ground. Exception is the seeds of bi-ennials. Some seeds here, must be allowed to drop to provide a succession of plants and blooms.
  3. Scatter seeds of poppies, larkspur and nigella, now. Allow them to overwinter and you will have earlier flowers next year.
  4. Trees and shrubs should be planted or transplanted in early September to allow for good root growth before frosts.
  5. Gardens that are heavy clay soil should be rototilled in late September. This will allow soil to be easier to cultivate in spring.
  6. Annual plants that have completed their usefulness in the garden should be added to the compost.
  7. Discontinue fertilzing plants in containers. Lengthen the period between watering, to begin hardening plants for preparation for moving them indoors.
  8. Take cuttings from plants such as Fuschia, Geraniums, Coleus, Alternanthera, Heliotrope, tender vines. Use non-flowering shoots found near the base of the plant. Each cutting should be 5 - 7 cm in length (2-3"). Cuttings should root in about two weeks time.
  9. Hardy Chrysanthemums that are overcrowding, should be divided and transplanted now,
  10. If spring flowering bulbs you have ordered, arrive now, store them in a cool dry location until it is time to plant them.
  11. Plant a few pots of herbs from the garden, for use during the winter. (Parsley, chives, thyme, sage). Herbs love a sunny window but prefer a cool atmosphere. An unheated room is ideal.
  12. Begin moving plants (which have been summering outdoors) indoors by noon each day. This will gradually accustom them to the lower light levels they will experience and reduce the shock and leaf drop.

Always, spray plants, you plan to move indoors, with an insect control, to prevent moving unwanted insects indoors. This spray program should begin a week or two before the plants are moved indoors (even for short periods).

WEEK 2

  1. Transplant perennials. Before moving them, have a plan on paper so that they do not require moving again in spring (which will delay their bloom and may stunt their new growth).
  2. When perennials such as Jasione, Armeria, Lavender, Iris - to name a few - require dividing, they will begin to have a somewhat dead look and will have no grow th in the middle.
  3. Spring flowering Anemones, Crocus, Snowdrops, Winter Aconite, Daffodils, should be planted now. If daffodils are to be planted to look 'naturalized', try this: place bulbs in a basket and toss them. Plant where the bulbs fall.
  4. Cut out old raspberry canes. Leave one new cane for every 10 cm (4") of row. Mulch the raspberry patch.
  5. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer on the lawn in autumn as this will encourage new growth that will not be hardened before winter. Use a fertilizer where the first number is low and the last two numbers are higher.
  6. Plant strawberry plants. These plants should not be allowed to yield next spring but will provide a large harvest the following year.

Week 3

  1. Transplant evergreens and keep well watered until the ground freezes.
  2. Plant early flowering tulips, hyacinths, etc. Save a few bulbs to pot up and force for indoor bloom - a welcome sight in February. *For instructions on how to plant and 'force' bulbs for mid-winter indoor bloom, email to us.
  3. Pumpkins and squash should be allowed to be touched by several light frosts. If planning to store them for winter, expose them to high temperatures for five days before storing.
  4. Onions should be pulled and their tops braided. These 'bunches' should then be hung in a warm dry location to 'cure' before storing.
  5. Move plants (that have been summering outdoors) indoors each day an hour earlier this week. (Remember to spray for insect control).
  6. Allow Christmas cactus to remain outdoors, but each evening, set under a shrub or a maple tree but away from street light or lights from the house. To bring the cactus into bloom for Christmas, shorter daylight hours, and a few light frosts will create the atmosphere to trigger the plant into producing buds by November.

Week 4

  1. Raise the blade on the lawn mower. Lengthen the time between lawn cuttings, now.
  2. Begin tidying up perennial beds, so that all plant refuse on the ground, has been removed to prevent overwintering of diseases.
  3. Do not cut back perennial plants. The stems of these plants will trap snow which will act as an insulator in winter, and add moisture in spring.
  4. The seed heads of Cosmos, Rudbeckis, Coneflowers, Coreopsis, Hollyhock and Evening Primrose provide food for birds in winter. Many of these seed heads (after a fresh snowfall) look exotic in the garden.
  5. Keep weeds under control, even at this late date. The fewer weeds in the garden when winter arrives, the fewer weeds in the garden when spring/summer arrive.
  6. If there is the threat of damaging frost, move summering plants indoors. Otherwise, follow routine of previous week but reduce outdoor time, by one hour.
  7. Don't forget the Christmas Cactus, outdoors. If there is a threat of damaging frost, move the plant indoors into a sunny window but with night time temperatures as cool as possible.

OCTOBER

First Week

The care you give perennials before winter sets in makes a difference in how they bloom next spring. Following are some tips to help you bed down perennials for winter's blast.

  1. To prevent the possibility of crown rot, remove all growth from the following plants only, before mulching
    :Echinops (Globe Thistle); Gypsophila (Babys Breath); Liatris (Blazing Star); Peony; Aconitum (Monkshood); Gaillardia (Blanketflower); Platycodon (Balloon Flower).
  2. Daylilies should have all flower shoots removed and the foliage cut back to six inches. This applies to bearded Iris, as well.
  3. When frost has killed the foliage of gladioli; dahlia and canna lilies, dig the corms / tubers/ rhizomes and remove the foliage. Allow the corms/tubers/rhizomes to cure for two weeks in a well ventilated area then store in dry peat moss in a cool, dry location (40deg.F) or (+5deg. C)
  4. Remove all debris from the garden to prevent slugs and snails from overwintering.
  5. Cut grass, quite short, in the perimeter of the garden to discourage field mice and voles from making nests. For the same reason, remove any containers that may provide shelter for mice and voles.
  6. Apply a 2" (5cm) layer of mulch after the ground is frozen.
  7. Scatter a few annual poppy and/or larkspur seeds in the flower garden. In June, scatter a few more so that you will have a succession of blooms in summer.
  8. Do not cut back foliage of Iris unless they were recently transplanted. Foliage is required for food manufacture, to sustain plants over winter and produce blooms in spring.
  9. Do not mulch Iris. Rhizomes are susceptible to rot if mulched.
  10. If Christmas cactus is still outdoors in protected area, it is best to bring indoors now.
  11. Amaryllis bulbs should now be in a cool location with pot lying on its side. Allow to "rest" with no water, for eight to ten weeks.
  12. Wrap all young deciduous trees to prevent rodent damage and/or sunscald.
  13. Erect a four sided burlap screen around your evergreens to protect them from drying, winter winds. Never use plastic as this will damage the plant.
  14. After hard frost - dig cannas and dahlias. Allow soil on tubers/rhizomes to dry, then cut off dead stalks. Remove soil and place tubers/rhizomes in moist (not wet) peat moss. Place in a cool (frost free) area.
  15. If you haven't done so, remove all annual plants and dig the flower beds.
  16. Weed perennial flower beds. Any perennial plants which have not been divided or transplanted must be done now. Be sure to use a 5-15- 5 transplant solution and water well. Dig these beds in preparation for next spring.
  17. Place markers where lilies, oriental poppies, bleeding hearts were blooming this summer. By doing so, you won't accidentally unearth them in the spring when cultivating the beds.
  18. Remove all fallen leaves from the rose bed. If your roses have black spot fungus on the leaves, place them in the garbage not in the compost.

Week Two

  1. Discontinue transplanting perennials and alpine plants. There now is insufficient time for plants to develop good root growth before freeze-up.
  2. Plant spring flowering bulbs.
  3. Plant summer and fall flowering bulbs (Lilies, colchicum, etc.)
  4. Roto till the garden. Fall roto-tilling helps to make heavy clay soil more friable in spring. This also is a form of population control --- of weeds, that is.

Week Three

  1. Rake leaves and please don't send them to the landfill. Use them to mulch your perennial beds and dig them into your garden. It is pure gold. If you have more than you can use, share them with friends and relatives.
  2. Soak the soil around the evergreens. Continue this method until freeze-up.

Week Four

  1. Don't forget to shut off all outdoor faucets.
  2. Chilly days and frosty nights signal that plant growth is slowing down. However, this does not give you a vacation from lawn mowing. Drop the blade one setting and give your lawn it's last hair cut.
  3. Check supports/bracing for newly planted trees to ensure that they are securely anchored for the winter.
  4. Place tree guards around young trees to protect from rabbit damage during winter months.
  5. Clean garden tools and power tools. Sharpen hoes and shovels and coat with a light oil spray before hanging them in the storage area.
  6. Winterize gas mowers. Have blades of lawnmowers professionally sharpened. Since service centres are not overworked at this time of year, your equipment will be serviced promptly and you are now ready for spring.

NOVEMBER

Gardeners, dedicated to improving on the past season's experiences will not spend these days in front of the fireplace with a book to read. Here are some tips to help you.

  1. Make notes of this year's successes AND disasters.
  2. Put into storage -- trellises, tomato cages, garden stakes, clay pots, bird baths and urns still in the garden or yard.
  3. Winterize your water garden Move potted water garden plants to the deepest part of the pond to prevent freezing. Hardy water lillies die back naturally, so no need to worry. Tropical water lillies should be moved to an indoor aquarium or deep pail. In shallow pools, catch fish with a net and bring them indoors for the winter. Drain pipes and hoses of air and water pumps. Clean and bring indoors.
  4. Complete the task of raking leaves. Place on compost pile or spread over the garden and rototill or dig them into the soil where they will break down over winter.
  5. Moss growing in your lawn is a sign of compacted soil. Before the lawn is hardened by frost, use a pitch fork to aerate that part of the soil for moss control.
  6. Wrap the trunks of young trees and shrubs with tree guards to prevent damage from rabbits and mice who love bark as winter food.
  7. Clean up all refuse in the garden and place on compost pile excluding weeds which should be disposed of in the garbage). Ill-kept gardens breed disease and unwanted insects.
  8. The early days of November is the last call for safe transplanting of herbaceous perennials. After transplanting, water well and firm the soil. At this stage, it is best to slightly mound the soil around the plant to prevent water from collecting and freezing at the base of the plant.
  9. Immediately after chrysanthemums have finished blooming, cut stalks back to within 6 inches from the ground to promote good root development for next year's growth.
  10. Watch the Grey Cup game and the following day, winterize the rose bed. Place styrofoam hoods over rose shrubs and anchor with a brick or other heavy objects
  11. Do not mulch flower beds until the ground has frozen. The purpose of mulching is not to prevent freeze-up but rather to prevent the freeze-thaw cycle which occurs in late winter.
  12. Give your lawn a final mowing in late November or just before snow cover occurs (whichever is first). The mower should be at its highest setting so the grass is no shorter than 2" or 5 cm.
  13. Plant paper white Narcissus and Amaryllis for December and January blooming.
  14. Place evergreen branches over plants in the rock garden.
  15. Take a well deserved rest, and have the luxury of spending time browsing through magazines and gardening books.
  16. Cut back everbearing Raspberries.
  17. Brace newly planted trees to prevent damage in high winds during winter.
  18. Bulb planting may be continued until ground freezes.
  19. Remove water that has accumulated in concrete bird baths and water bowls and cover these.
  20. If a black walnut tree is located on your property, remove all fallen nuts, husks and leaves. Place them in the garbage for removal to the landfill. DO NOT ADD TO YOUR COMPOST.
  21. Store tubers / rhizomes and corms in dry peat moss and place in a cool basement (40 deg.F) for the winter.

DECEMBER

Before the snow completely shuts down the garden, here are a few end of season chores -

  1. Before ordering seeds for next years garden put your garden plan on paper.
  2. Estimate the area to be planted then determine the number of plants that will be required.
  3. Any roses not yet mounded or protected with a hood should be done in early December.
  4. Give the compost heap a final turning so that recent additions are mixed into the earlier material and decomposition is hastened.
  5. Be sure all eaves have been cleared of debris such as leaves, twigs, etc.
  6. If you haven't already done so, wrap shrubs such as Weigela, Rose of Sharon, Japanese Anemone, Japanese Maple, Mahonia (Oregon Grape) and less hardy evergreens. Rhododendrons and Azaleas should have evergreen branches laid over them to protect them from drying winter winds.
  7. Sharpen and clean all garden tools and then place into storage. Next spring you'll be thankful for a sharp spade when you realize how easy it is to use them.
  8. Check bulbs / corms / tubers you put into storage a few weeks ago. Discard any that show signs of disease. Remove dead foliage from Cannas if it was left on rhizomes.

Throughout winter

  1. Save all ashes from the fireplace for use in the garden next spring.
  2. Free the branches of evergreens from snow as soon as possible after a heavy snow fall.
  3. Shovel snow onto perennial beds, rose beds, strawberry beds and mound around shrubs.
  4. Do not create a path through the snow across the lawn. Grass will not rebound if snow is packed over it.
  5. Remove battery and spark plugs from riding mowers/ garden tractors when placing in storage for the winter. Clean spark plugs before placing in storage.

(Indoors)

  1. Don't neglect purchases of gifts for gardening friends on your list.
  2. Check Oleanders, Ficus, Schefflera, Philodendron for any signs of scale. Treat immediately by dabbing each visible insect with a Q-tip soaked in rubbing alcohol.
  3. If Christmas cactus is still in a cool location, move it to a warm area with bright indirect sunlight.
  4. Amaryllis should be in a bright indirect location until bud is well developed. Then move into a sunny window. Amaryllis love a warm room.
  5. Cyclamen should be kept in a cool room preferably temperatures lower than 60 deg. F in daytime and 40 deg. F or slightly above, at night. Keep them in a bright light location but not in direct sunlight. Watch for signs of mites and treat immediately.
  6. Allow house plants to remain slightly on the dry side. While day length is short and light levels are low, plants should be allowed to "rest". Do Not Fertilize.
  7. Take a vacation. You've earned it. Mid January, activity increases again!