With greater light intensity and longer days, cuttings of most plants root readily this month. Dip cuttings into a rooting hormone to stimulate good root production, then place in moist sterile vermiculite or perlite and enclose in a plastic bag leaving top open. If possible, provid bottom heat. This can be done by placing the container on top of the refrigerator.
Mid to late March, as the frost leaves the ground, the following activities should be done.
Week 1
- Do not prune foliage of late flowering tulips. Allow foliage to mature and die back naturally.
- Remove faded flowers from early blooming perennials and biennials.
- Complete transplanting of annuals, biennials, perennials and hardy garden mums.
- Check Columbine (Aquilegia) and roses for evidence of free loading pests.
- Do not prune foliage of tulips, daffodils,
etc. Allow the foliage to mature and die back naturally.
The green foliage is required for the manufacture of food
to be stored in the bulb for next year's bloom.
- Remove faded flowers from early blooming
perennials/biannuals.
- Remove faded / dead blooms from Lilacs and prune Lilac
shrubs. Spread some agricultural lime around the base of
shrubs and lightly rake into the soil.
- After flowers of Delphiniums have faded, cut the stalks
back to twelve inches. When new growth emerges, then cut
the old stalks back to 4 inches from the ground.
- As soon as the soil has warmed sufficiently, plant
Gladiola corms.
- As Bleeding Hearts, Oriental Poppies and Virginia
Bluebells die back, mark their location so you will not (accidentally)destroy these plants by digging in the bare spot they
leave.
- Any plants growing under eaves and near a wall will
require more frequent watering because eaves prevent
rainfall from reaching the plants and the sun against a
wall radiates warmth that tends to dry the soil.
- Plant Nasturtiums around roses to keep Rose bushes aphid
free.
Week 2
- Hardy garden mums should have the tips of branches pinched for the first time.
- Young or weak stemmed plants, grown as standards - such as tree roses; fuschia; heliotrope; and lantana, should be staked.
- Initiate a regular watering programme for Cedars.
Week 3
- Carpet bedding plants such as Alternanthera; Irisine and Santolina should be sheared lightly.
- To avoid unwanted seedlings and to produce late summer bloom, cut back or shear early flowering perennials such as - Aubretia;
Arabis; Lamium.
- Primula and Dwarf Iris should be divided immediately after blooms fade.
Week 4
- Plant perennial seeds outdoors and keep evenly moist.
- Hardy garden mums should have new growth pinched out again (second pinching) to encourage plants to bush out and produce greater number
of blooms in the fall.
- Take softwood cuttings of favourite shrubs or vines. Cuttings should be 3-4 inches (7-10cm) in length and gathered early in the morning.
Each cutting should have 3-4 nodes. Dip cutting into a
rooting hormone. Insert into a container of vermiculite
and cover with plastic. Usually takes 4 - 6 weeks for
deciduous plants to root.
- Take leaf and stem cuttings of: Archangel; Dianthus (pinks) and Asters.
Week 1
- Clean bird baths thoroughly every second or third day to prevent mosquito larvae development.
- If irrigating lawns and/or gardens, do not have it set on automatic. It is an extravagant waste of water to have an
irrigation system going when a rain storm is occurring or has just occurred. Irrigate manually and only as needed.
- Seeds to be sown in July for fall transplanting:
Oriental Poppies
English Daisy (Bellis perennis)
Foxgloves
Pyrethrum
At end of July, sow seeds of Pansies
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- Bearded Iris should be divided shortly after they have finished blooming.
- Prune flower shrubs after they have finished blooming.
- Collect seed of early flowering perennials and alpines e.g. Draba;Pulsatilla (Anemone); Aquilegia (Columbine). Place seeds in paper bags to dry.
- Fertilize annuals and hardy garden mums using a 20-20-20 fertilizer.
- Dead head plants as blooms fade (Annuals; Biennials; Perennials; Roses)
- Keep a watchful eye for: aphids on roses and honeysuckle vine; and evidence of spider mites or tarnished bugs on other plants.
Week 2
- Make the final pinch on mums.
- Prune hedges. Make sure that pruning is on an angle so that hedge is narrower at top than bottom. This allows for adequate light to bathe lower branches and continue to provide healthy growth.
- After strawberry harvest is complete, set lawn mower blade at highest setting and mow tops of strawberry plants to 5 cm. Remove suckers. This renews the strawberry patch.
Week 3
- Prune hybrid tea roses; miniature roses and climbing roses after they have finished blooming. Avoid pruning continuous blooming
roses such as Rugosa.
- Bleeder trees such as Maples, should be pruned now.
Week 4
- Divide Bearded and dwarf types of Iris
- discard any diseased portion of the rhizomes
- trim back leaves by 1/3rd.
- replant
- scatter some agricultural lime over the soil surface
and water in.
- Take stem and tip cuttings of perennials and alpines. Treat with rooting hormone and place in a container of vermiculite. Cover with plastic. Set in a shady area. (Plants such as: Yarrow; Moss Pink;
Veronica: Gentian)
- Order hardy fall-flowering bulbs i.e. Colchicum; Cyclamen
- This is the hotttest and driest time of summer. Raise cutting height of blades on lawn mower so grass is cut no less than 2" (5 cm)
- Madonna lilies; Oriental Poppies; Bleeding Hearts; should be transplanted now.
Week l
- Divide spring blooming wildflowers (Trillium, Hepatica,
Wild Ginger & Ladyslippers).
- Pull weeds before they re-seed.
- Take cuttings of Geraniums and Fuschia and root to use as flowering plants indoors in winter.
- Root cuttings of Rock Garden plants and ground covers.
- Shear carpet bedding plants (Foliage type - only)
- Scatter seeds of Columbine and Larkspur for early bloom next summer.
- Allow seeds of bi-ennials such as Lupines and Lychnis coronaria to scatter in the flower bed.
- In early August, propagate
cuttings of deciduous shrubs. Insert 6"
cuttings in a rooting hormone then place into the
soil in a cold frame or under a bell jar.
- Plan your spring flowering bulb
display this month. Make a list of the bulbs you
intend to plant. Note their blooming time and
growing height. Bulbs will begin to arrive in
garden centres late this month.
- August is the month to start your
fall landscaping projects.
- Late August - cuttings of
evergreens such as Yew; Juniper; Euonymus;
Boxwood, may be made. Follow same procedure as
for deciduous shrubs.
- Transplant Mums into the garden
for a burst of colour throughout the fall.
- Divide bearded and dwarf iris. Firm into place and water thoroughly. Trim 1/3 of foliage.
- Transplant Peonies. Using a ruler, make sure the crown of the plant is no deeper or shallower than 2 in. (5 cm) below the surface of the soil. Peonies planted deeper or shallower will likely
fail to bloom.
- Collect seeds of maturing perennials and alpines such as Gaillardia; Gypsophila; Rock Cress. Place seeds in paper bags to dry. Label accurately.
Week 2
- Divide spring blooming wild flowers such as - Trillium; Ladyslipppers; Wild Ginger; and Hepatica.
- Keep track of perennials as they fade away. Mark their location with the name of the plant on a stake OR draw a garden plan indicating where they are located.
- Cut back raspberry canes that bore fruit this year to get strong new shoots for next year.
- Continue to deadhead faded blooms to prolong flowering of plants.
Week 3
- Transplant rooted perennial "slips". Choose a cloudy day and
preferably just before rain is expected.
- Cut flowers and hang upside down in bunches to dry, for use as winter bouquets.
- Harvest herbs and hang them in a dark dry place to dry.
- Remove fallen fruit and leaves from around fruit trees to keep insect pests from establishing.
Week 4
- Plant early fall-flowering bulbs such as Colchicum (Autumn Crocus) and Cyclamen.
- Divide Siberian and Japanese Iris. Water thoroughly.
- Sow seeds of Pansies; Parsley; Foxglove in the garden.
- Transplant Narcissus.
- Check rock gardens and thin plants if necessary. Overcrowded conditions are not conducive to healthy, vigorous growth.
- Madona Lily bulbs should be planted in late August or early September.
August General Activities
- - Add some manure to the compost heap and water thoroughly.
- - Pull weeds religiously, before they re-seed.
- - Feed and disbud dahlias.
- - Put a light dusting of bone meal around roses and rake into top of soil to give strength and vigor for overwintering.
WEEK 1
- Lift tender summer flowering bulbs for winter
storage before a hard frost nips them
- If you do not want a proliferation of certain plants,
remove seed pods to prevent their dropping to the ground.
Exception is the seeds of bi-ennials. Some seeds here,
must be allowed to drop to provide a succession of plants
and blooms.
- Scatter seeds of poppies, larkspur and nigella, now.
Allow them to overwinter and you will have earlier
flowers next year.
- Trees and shrubs should be planted or transplanted in
early September to allow for good root growth before
frosts.
- Gardens that are heavy clay soil should be rototilled in
late September. This will allow soil to be easier to
cultivate in spring.
- Annual plants that have completed their usefulness in the
garden should be added to the compost.
- Discontinue fertilzing plants in containers. Lengthen the period between watering, to begin hardening plants for preparation for moving them indoors.
- Take cuttings from plants such as Fuschia, Geraniums, Coleus, Alternanthera, Heliotrope, tender vines. Use non-flowering shoots found near the base of the plant. Each cutting should be 5 - 7 cm in length (2-3"). Cuttings should root in about two weeks time.
- Hardy Chrysanthemums that are overcrowding, should be divided and transplanted now,
- If spring flowering bulbs you have ordered, arrive now, store them in a cool dry location until it is time to plant them.
- Plant a few pots of herbs from the garden, for use during the winter. (Parsley, chives, thyme, sage). Herbs love a sunny window but prefer a cool atmosphere. An unheated room is ideal.
- Begin moving plants (which have been summering outdoors) indoors by noon each day. This will gradually accustom them to the lower light levels they will experience and reduce the shock and leaf drop.
Always, spray plants, you plan to move indoors, with an insect control, to prevent moving unwanted insects indoors. This spray program should begin a week or two before the plants are moved indoors (even for short
periods).
WEEK 2
- Transplant perennials. Before moving them, have a plan on paper so that they do not require moving again in spring (which will delay their bloom and may stunt their new growth).
- When perennials such as Jasione, Armeria, Lavender, Iris - to name a few - require dividing, they will begin to have a somewhat dead look and will have no grow th in the middle.
- Spring flowering Anemones, Crocus, Snowdrops, Winter Aconite, Daffodils, should be planted now. If daffodils are to be planted to look 'naturalized', try this: place bulbs in a basket and toss them. Plant where the bulbs fall.
- Cut out old raspberry canes. Leave one new cane for every 10 cm (4") of row. Mulch the raspberry patch.
- Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer on the lawn in autumn as this will encourage new growth that will not be hardened before winter. Use a fertilizer where the first number is low and the last two numbers are higher.
- Plant strawberry plants. These plants should not be allowed to yield next spring but will provide a large harvest the following year.
Week 3
- Transplant evergreens and keep well watered until the ground freezes.
- Plant early flowering tulips, hyacinths, etc. Save a few bulbs to pot up and force for indoor bloom - a welcome sight in February.
*For instructions on how to plant and 'force' bulbs for mid-winter indoor bloom, email to us.
- Pumpkins and squash should be allowed to be touched by several light frosts. If planning to store them for winter, expose them to high temperatures for five days before storing.
- Onions should be pulled and their tops braided. These 'bunches' should then be hung in a warm dry location to 'cure' before storing.
- Move plants (that have been summering outdoors) indoors each day an hour earlier this week. (Remember to spray for insect control).
- Allow Christmas cactus to remain outdoors, but each evening, set under a shrub or a maple tree but away from street light or lights from the house. To bring the cactus into bloom for Christmas, shorter daylight hours, and a few light frosts will create the atmosphere to trigger the plant into producing buds by November.
Week 4
- Raise the blade on the lawn mower. Lengthen the time between lawn cuttings, now.
- Begin tidying up perennial beds, so that all plant refuse on the ground, has been removed to prevent overwintering of diseases.
- Do not cut back perennial plants. The stems of these plants will trap snow which will act as an insulator in winter, and add moisture in spring.
- The seed heads of Cosmos, Rudbeckis, Coneflowers, Coreopsis, Hollyhock and Evening Primrose provide food for birds in winter. Many of these seed heads (after a fresh snowfall) look exotic in the
garden.
- Keep weeds under control, even at this late date. The fewer weeds in the garden when winter arrives, the fewer weeds in the garden when
spring/summer arrive.
- If there is the threat of damaging frost, move summering plants indoors. Otherwise, follow routine of previous week but reduce outdoor time, by one hour.
- Don't forget the Christmas Cactus, outdoors. If there is a threat of damaging frost, move the plant indoors into a sunny window but with night time temperatures as cool as possible.
First Week
The care you give perennials before winter sets in makes a
difference in how they bloom next spring. Following are some tips
to help you bed down perennials for winter's blast.
- To prevent the possibility of crown rot, remove all
growth from the following plants only, before mulching
:Echinops (Globe Thistle); Gypsophila (Babys Breath);
Liatris (Blazing Star); Peony; Aconitum (Monkshood);
Gaillardia (Blanketflower); Platycodon (Balloon Flower).
- Daylilies should have all flower shoots removed and the
foliage cut back to six inches. This applies to bearded
Iris, as well.
- When frost has killed the foliage of gladioli; dahlia and
canna lilies, dig the corms / tubers/ rhizomes and remove
the foliage. Allow the corms/tubers/rhizomes to cure for
two weeks in a well ventilated area then store in dry
peat moss in a cool, dry location (40deg.F) or (+5deg. C)
- Remove all debris from the garden to prevent slugs and
snails from overwintering.
- Cut grass, quite short, in the perimeter of the garden to
discourage field mice and voles from making nests. For
the same reason, remove any containers that may provide
shelter for mice and voles.
- Apply a 2" (5cm) layer of mulch after the ground is frozen.
- Scatter a few annual poppy and/or larkspur seeds in the flower garden. In June, scatter a few more so that you will have a succession of blooms in summer.
- Do not cut back foliage of Iris unless they were recently transplanted. Foliage is required for food manufacture, to sustain plants over winter and produce blooms in spring.
- Do not mulch Iris. Rhizomes are susceptible to rot if mulched.
- If Christmas cactus is still outdoors in protected area, it is best to bring indoors now.
- Amaryllis bulbs should now be in a cool location with pot lying on its side. Allow to "rest" with no water, for eight to ten weeks.
- Wrap all young deciduous trees to prevent rodent damage and/or sunscald.
- Erect a four sided burlap screen around your evergreens to protect them from drying, winter winds. Never use plastic as this will damage the plant.
- After hard frost - dig cannas and dahlias. Allow soil on tubers/rhizomes to dry, then cut off dead stalks. Remove soil and place tubers/rhizomes in moist (not wet) peat moss. Place in a cool (frost free) area.
- If you haven't done so, remove all annual plants and dig the flower beds.
- Weed perennial flower beds. Any perennial plants which have not been divided or transplanted must be done now. Be sure to use a 5-15- 5 transplant solution and water well. Dig these beds in preparation for next spring.
- Place markers where lilies, oriental poppies, bleeding hearts were blooming this summer. By doing so, you won't accidentally unearth
them in the spring when cultivating the beds.
- Remove all fallen leaves from the rose bed. If your roses have black spot fungus on the leaves, place them in the garbage not in
the compost.
Week Two
- Discontinue transplanting perennials and alpine plants. There now is insufficient time for plants to develop good root growth before freeze-up.
- Plant spring flowering bulbs.
- Plant summer and fall flowering bulbs (Lilies, colchicum, etc.)
- Roto till the garden. Fall roto-tilling helps to make heavy clay soil more friable in spring. This also is a form of population
control --- of weeds, that is.
Week Three
- Rake leaves and please don't send them to the landfill. Use them to mulch your perennial beds and dig them into your garden. It is pure
gold. If you have more than you can use, share them with friends and relatives.
- Soak the soil around the evergreens. Continue this method until freeze-up.
Week Four
- Don't forget to shut off all outdoor faucets.
- Chilly days and frosty nights signal that plant growth is slowing down. However, this does not give you a vacation from lawn mowing. Drop the blade one setting and give your lawn it's last hair cut.
- Check supports/bracing for newly planted trees to ensure that they are securely anchored for the winter.
- Place tree guards around young trees to protect from rabbit damage during winter months.
- Clean garden tools and power tools. Sharpen hoes and shovels and coat with a light oil spray before hanging them in the storage area.
- Winterize gas mowers. Have blades of lawnmowers professionally sharpened. Since service centres are not overworked at this time of year, your equipment will be serviced promptly and you are now
ready for spring.
Gardeners, dedicated to improving on the past season's experiences will not spend these days in front of the fireplace with a book to read. Here are some tips to help you.
- Make notes of this year's successes AND disasters.
- Put into storage -- trellises, tomato cages, garden stakes, clay pots, bird baths and urns still in the garden or yard.
- Winterize your water garden Move potted water garden plants to the deepest part of the pond to prevent freezing. Hardy water lillies die back naturally, so no need to worry. Tropical water lillies should be
moved to an indoor aquarium or deep pail. In shallow pools, catch fish with a net and bring them indoors for the winter. Drain pipes and hoses of air and water pumps. Clean and bring indoors.
- Complete the task of raking leaves. Place on compost pile or spread over the garden and rototill or dig them into the soil where they will break down over winter.
- Moss growing in your lawn is a sign of compacted soil. Before the lawn is hardened by frost, use a pitch fork to aerate that part of the soil for moss control.
- Wrap the trunks of young trees and shrubs with tree guards to prevent damage from rabbits and mice who love bark as winter food.
- Clean up all refuse in the garden and place on compost pile excluding weeds which should be disposed of in the garbage). Ill-kept gardens breed disease and unwanted insects.
- The early days of November is the last call for safe transplanting of herbaceous perennials. After transplanting, water well and firm the soil. At this stage, it is best to slightly mound the soil around
the plant to prevent water from collecting and freezing at the base of the plant.
- Immediately after chrysanthemums have finished blooming, cut stalks back to within 6 inches from the ground to promote good root development for next year's growth.
- Watch the Grey Cup game and the following day, winterize the rose bed. Place styrofoam hoods over rose shrubs and anchor with a brick or other heavy objects
- Do not mulch flower beds until the ground has frozen. The purpose of mulching is not to prevent freeze-up but rather to prevent the freeze-thaw cycle which occurs in late winter.
- Give your lawn a final mowing in late November or just before snow cover occurs (whichever is first). The mower should be at its highest setting so the grass is no shorter than 2" or 5 cm.
- Plant paper white Narcissus and Amaryllis for December and January blooming.
- Place evergreen branches over plants in the rock garden.
- Take a well deserved rest, and have the luxury of spending time browsing through magazines and gardening books.
- Cut back everbearing Raspberries.
- Brace newly planted trees to prevent damage in high winds during winter.
- Bulb planting may be continued until ground freezes.
- Remove water that has accumulated in concrete bird baths and water bowls and cover these.
- If a black walnut tree is located on your property, remove all fallen nuts, husks and leaves. Place them in the garbage for removal to the landfill. DO NOT ADD TO YOUR COMPOST.
- Store tubers / rhizomes and corms in dry peat moss and place in a cool basement (40 deg.F) for the winter.
Before the snow completely shuts down the garden, here are a few end of season chores -
- Before ordering seeds for next years garden put your garden plan on paper.
- Estimate the area to be planted then determine the number of plants that will be required.
- Any roses not yet mounded or protected with a hood should
be done in early December.
- Give the compost heap a final turning so that recent additions are mixed into the earlier material and decomposition is hastened.
- Be sure all eaves have been cleared of debris such as leaves, twigs, etc.
- If you haven't already done so, wrap shrubs such as Weigela, Rose of Sharon, Japanese Anemone, Japanese Maple, Mahonia (Oregon Grape) and less hardy evergreens. Rhododendrons and Azaleas should have
evergreen branches laid over them to protect them from drying winter winds.
- Sharpen and clean all garden tools and then place into storage. Next spring you'll be thankful for a sharp spade when you realize how easy it is to use them.
- Check bulbs / corms / tubers you put into storage a few weeks ago. Discard any that show signs of disease. Remove dead foliage from Cannas if it was left on rhizomes.
Throughout winter
- Save all ashes from the fireplace for use in the garden next spring.
- Free the branches of evergreens from snow as soon as possible after a heavy snow fall.
- Shovel snow onto perennial beds, rose beds, strawberry beds and mound around shrubs.
- Do not create a path through the snow across the lawn. Grass will not rebound if snow is packed over it.
- Remove battery and spark plugs from riding mowers/ garden tractors when placing in storage for the winter. Clean spark plugs before placing in storage.
(Indoors)
- Don't neglect purchases of gifts for gardening friends on
your list.
- Check Oleanders, Ficus, Schefflera, Philodendron for any
signs of scale. Treat immediately by dabbing each visible
insect with a Q-tip soaked in rubbing alcohol.
- If Christmas cactus is still in a cool location, move it
to a warm area with bright indirect sunlight.
- Amaryllis should be in a bright indirect location until
bud is well developed. Then move into a sunny window.
Amaryllis love a warm room.
- Cyclamen should be kept in a cool room preferably
temperatures lower than 60 deg. F in daytime and 40 deg.
F or slightly above, at night. Keep them in a bright
light location but not in direct sunlight. Watch for
signs of mites and treat immediately.
- Allow house plants to remain slightly on the dry side.
While day length is short and light levels are low,
plants should be allowed to "rest". Do
Not Fertilize.
- Take a vacation. You've earned it. Mid January, activity
increases again!