Garden Serenity

Cook's Landscape Rejuvenation Consulting & Designs

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Questions on this page
Pruning Fuschia shrubs - when and how?
How to grow oriental lilies?
Definition of top soil and potting soil?
How to winterize hardy fuschia?
Help for backyard design?
How do I keep a Fuchsia hanging basket for the winter?

QUESTION: I have a question that I've found differing answers to so thought I'd ask. I live in NW ORegon, I have several BIG fuschia bushes and numerous small ones (varying varieties), I am wondering when and how much pruning should be done to these plants. Some of my bushes are 4 to 5 ft tall. My guess would be to prune back in late winter or early spring to old wood and thin out some branches but sure could use direction on this as I want them to return year after year as grand as they were this year. The plants were in the landscaping of a house I just recently purchased so I've not had ones this big to winter over outside before.

ANSWER:

In answer to your question regarding the Fuchsia bushes, here are some guidelines taken from some resource in my library: "Pruning - Because flowers appear only on new growth, they should be pruned severely every year. There are two reasons for this 1 - to keep them in the shape desired and 2- to induce new growth in the spring. In frost-free regions, Fuchsias may be pruned any time from October to March. When the plant has finished blooming and obviously is resting, it may be pruned at any time, until it starts growing again in the spring. The amount of pruning depends upon the desired size and shape of the plant. Cutting away two-third of the wood does no harm to a healthy plant." As a further guide, I would suggest using the same 'logic' used when pruning other shrubs. Any branches that tend to cross over or rub against each other should be pruned out. This will also help to open the plant, and allow for more air circulation. Your garden must be quite a beauty spot when these shrubs are in bloom. Congratulations.

QUESTION: I bought about 9 oriental lillies in June, since then all the blooms have fallen off and they are just green stalks, they are in my garden. What do I do with them now?

ANSWER:

Now that the flower has faded and the petals have fallen, cut the flower stalk back by 1/3. Allow the stalks to die back naturally. Keep the bulbs well watered, but not swampy wet, until all signs of growth have disappeared. Mark the area where the bulbs are so you don't accidentally dig into them while working in your beds. Sprinkle some bulb booster over that area and enjoy your lilies again next season.

QUESTION: What's the difference between top soil and potting soil? When I'm replanting Hosta's in the ground do I put potting soil or top soil in the hole with plant or what? I'm lost. What do I do when planting flowers in ground use top or potting?

ANSWER:

This is a very good question. Hope the following helps you.
Potting Soil Definition: Contains:
Sphagnum peat moss
Perlite
Vermiculite
Limestone for PH adjustment
Wetting agent
Specially formulated for potting and seeding a wide variety of plant species. This product is used by greenhouse growers because of its high water-holding, nutrient retention, and aeration properties.

Top Soil Definition

The uniform top six to twelve inches of soil which contains enough organic matter and nutrients to be a fertile soil.

From the above definitions I think you can see that one is a natural source while the other is a mixture containing no soil. Potting soil is generally sold by garden centres for indoor use. It is more expensive than top soil and has several draw backs. One should know the growing requirements of a plant. Some plants do not like to grow in a substance that remains moist most of the time. Sphagnum and peat moss are a substance used in gardens to create acid soil for plants like Blueberries and Strawberries which prefer to grow in an acid type soil. In potting soil, limestone has been added to offset the acidic effect on the soil. So then, potting soil should not be used on the above plants since they do not take kindly to a limed "soil". If garden soil is of a heavy clay type, then peat moss or sphagnum moss should not be added, since this product will retain water and make the soil too wet for most garden plants. Plant roots, saturated in water, cannot take in oxygen which is crucial for their growth. Most plants need to have the soil dry slightly between applications of water. The mosses tend to prevent this.

The answer to your question then is, if topsoil is available in the garden center, it would be preferable for use. If topsoil is not available, composted soil would be the next preference.

QUESTION: I live in rural south Carolina. I have a naturally beautiful back yard, and would like to find a blueprint, design I can gradually do myself to enhance it. I have heard of sites where photos can be sent and suggestions on design made. Any ideas about this kind of service?

ANSWER:

South Carolina can have some very beautiful views beyond the back yard. I personally do not recommend using a service that prepares a blueprint or design based only on photos. Photos, unfortunately, do not give a panoramic view of the property. Sometimes there is a beautiful view beyond the backyard that should be "framed" and added to the view of the property. At other times there can be an ugly spot just beyond or beside the property that should be screened out and this too is not shown via photos. You have the right idea of preparing a plan (design) that can be installed over a long period of time. If a plan is put on paper, then it can be installed over a ten year period without it looking hedge podge, as long as you continue to follow the plan on the paper. Most garden centres or nurseries offer a service and most state that the initial consultation cost will be waived if it leads to a design. If you have not already done so, you might want to look at the Planning page on our website. You can view it here. I have created this page in a fashion which in essence is a brief course on landscape design, specifically for the do-it-yourself gardener.

QUESTION: How do I winterize hardy fuschias? Can I separate a large one, and when should I do it?

ANSWER:

There is one area of concern. Check to be absolutely sure that the Fuchsia you have is hardy in your area. These are native to Peru. As perennials they will winter in areas where temperatures do not go below 0 deg.F. It is suggested that even then, sawdust or compost should be mounded at the base of the plants - just to be on the safe side. You may find that the top of the plant which is above the sawdust or compost mound may not survive. When the mulch is removed in spring, cut the plant back to the area where the protection extended to. If it is hardy in your area, it should begin to send out new growth from there.

You may want to check with the nursery where the plant was purchased and ask where the plant was imported from. If imported from southern California, it has not been hardened. If imported from Oregon or Washington state, it would have a greater chance.

QUESTION: How do I keep a Fuchsia hanging basket for the winter? - Scotland, UK

ANSWER:

The plant should be brought indoors before frost occurs. After bringing it indoors, place it near a window in a cool room. Temperatures of 55 - 65 F ( 16C) are ideal. Never allow temperatures to go above 68F (20C). The plant does not necessarily require full sun but does need good strong light. Cut the plant back to about 6 inches (15cm). Reduce the amount of water during the winter dormant period. Provide only enough water to keep the soil from drying out and the leaves from wilting. A daily misting would be helpful. Do not fertilize while the plant is resting. When the plant again comes into active growth, and through the summer months, provide ample water. Fertilize every two weeks during spring and summer when plants are in active growth.

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